All Culinary Artist Must Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.

David Cooper
David Cooper

A technology journalist and digital strategist with over a decade of experience covering emerging tech trends and their impact on society.